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What questions should I ask a mortgage lender in Corry ? If you’re dealing with a mortgage broker there’s some questions that you should ask both on your first meeting with the mortgage broker and throughout working with your mortgage broker to make sure that you’re getting the best service possible.

USDALoanInfoPA is going to go through 10 different questions that you can ask your mortgage lender in Corry. Be aware that your USDA Loan or Mortgage broker  will be getting the loan that you need and the service that you want.

The first question that I think everyone should ask a mortgage broker is a pretty straightforward one.

How Much Will a Mortgage Broker Cost?

Most mortgage lenders in Corry actually work for free.

So it doesn’t actually cost you anything in order to do it.

They get money because they are paid by the banks when you successfully get a loan.

So they get a small commission of the loan that you apply for and if you get it.

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So most mortgage brokers in Corry will work for free and it won’t cost you anything.

However, there are some mortgage brokers out there who do require deposits or who do require you to pay.

So, it’s important to ask, “How much will this cost me?” when assessing which mortgage broker you want to go with.

How much do Mortgage Lenders earn in commission from me and from my loan?

This is less to understand exactly how much they make.

You can see what percentage of commissions they make and things like that by visiting USDALoanInfo.

But it’s more to understand whether or not they’ll be willing to give you this information.

A transparent mortgage broker is someone that’d be willing to give you this information and you know that they have your best interest at heart.

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If they skirt around this issue and they don’t tell you how much they earn.

Well then that would send out red flags for me because I can’t trust them to put my best interest at heart because there are some circumstances where one loan will earn them more money than a loan that could potentially be better for me but not as good for them.

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So, I’m just trying to establish whether or not this mortgage broker in Corry is someone that I can trust.

And by asking them the big question, the money question,”How much will you earn from me?” That’s a great way to understand whether or not you can trust the mortgage lender.

So ask that question and see how they respond.

Do Mortgage Lenders Invest Themselves?

Now, I don’t think a mortgage broker has to be a property investor in order for them to be able to get you a good loan and for them to help you successfully invest in property.

However, if they are interested in property in Corry, if they do invest themselves, then that is going to go a long way to help you because they understand what it’s like to be in your shoes.

They understand what you’re trying to get out of this and they’ve done it themselves so they can help you miss some of the pitfalls and things like that.

If they don’t invest themselves, then I would want to ask them, “Have you worked with many people that invest in property?” Because as mortgage brokers, some of them just work with people who are buying their own home.

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Some of the mortgage lender folk who work with people who are doing particular investment strategies.

So, some might work with people who invest in positive cash flow property or who invest in rural areas, who invest using developments.

- [Voiceover] What Iwant to do in this video is explain what a mortgage is.

I think most of us have atleast a general sense of it, but even better than that,actually go into the numbers and understand a little bitof what you are actually doing when you're paying amortgage, what it's made up of and how much of it is interest versus how much of it isactually paying down the loan.

Let's just start with a little example.

Let's say that thereis a house that I like.

Let's say that that is the house that I would like to purchase.

It has a price tag of, let's say that I need to pay $500,000 to buy that house.

This is the seller ofthe house right here.

And they have a mustache.

That's the seller of the house.

I would like to buy it.

I would like to buy thehouse.

This is me right here.

And I've been able tosave up $125,000 dollars.

I've been able to save up$125,000 but I would really like to live in that house so I go to a bank.

I go to a bank, let me geta good color for a bank.

That is the bank right there.

And I say, "Mr.

Bank, can you lend me "the rest of the amountI need for that house?" Which is essentially $375,000.

I'm putting 25% down.

This number right here, that is 25% of $500,000.

So I ask the bank, "Can Ihave a loan for the balance? Can I have $375,000 loan?" And the bank says, "Sure.

You seem like a nice guy "with a good job whohas good credit rating.

"I will give you the loan but while you're paying off the loan you can'thave the title of that house.

"We have to have that title of the house "and once you pay off the loan, "we're going to give youthe title of the house.

" What's gonna happen here isthe loan is gonna go to me, so it's $375,000.

$375,000 loan.

Then I can go and buy the house.

I'm gonna give the total $500,000, $500,000 to the seller of the house, and I'll actually moveinto the house myself, assuming I'm using itfor my own residence.

But the title of the house, the document that says who actually owns the house.

This is the home title.

This is the title of the house.

Home title.

It will not go to me.

It will go to the bank.

The home title will go from the seller, or maybe even the seller's bank, because maybe they haven'tpaid off their mortgage.

It will go to the bankthat I'm borrowing from.

This transferring of thetitle to secure a loan.

When I say "secure aloan," I'm saying I need to give something to thelender in case I don't pay back the loan or if I just disappear.

This is the security right here.

That is technically what a mortgage is.

This pledging of the titleas the security for the loan, that's what a mortgage is.

It actually comes from old French.

Mort means dead, andthe gage means pledge.

I'm 100% sure I'm mispronouncing it, but it comes from dead pledge because I'm pledging itnow but that pledge will eventually die once I pay off the loan.

Once I pay off the loan thispledge of the title to the bank will die and it will come back to me.

That's why it's called adead pledge, or a mortgage.

And probably because itcomes from old French is the reason we don't saymort-gage, we say mortgage.

But anyway, this is alittle bit technical, but normally when peoplerefer to a mortgage they're really referringto the loan itself.

They're really referringto the mortgage loan.

What I want to do inthe rest of this video is use a screenshot froma spreadsheet I made to actually show you the math, or actually show you what yourmortgage payment is going to.

You can download thisspreadsheet at khanacademy, khanacademy.

Org/downloads/mortgagecalculator Or actually, even better, justgo to the downloads folder and on your web browseryou'll see a bunch of files, and it will be the filecalled MortgageCalculator, MortgageCalculator.

Xlsx.

It's a Microsoft 2007 format.

Just go to this URL, thenyou'll see all the files there and you can just download this file if you want to play with it.

What it does here, in thiskind of dark brown color, these are the assumptionsthat you can input and then you can change thesecells in your spreadsheet without breaking the whole spreadsheet.

Here I've assumed a 5.

5% interest rate.

I'm buying a $500,000 home.

It's a 25% down payment, that's the $125,000 that I had saved up, that I talked about right over there.

And then the loan amount.

Well, I have 125, I'mgonna have to borrow 375, it calculates it for us.

And then I'm gonna get apretty plain vanilla loan.

This is gonna be a 30 year.

When I say term in years, thisis how long the loan is for.

So 30 years.

It's gonna be a 30 yearfixed-rate mortgage.

Fixed rate, which means theinterest rate won't change.

We'll talk about that a little bit.

This 5.

5% that I'm payingon the money that I borrowed will not change over thecourse of the 30 years.

We will see that the amount I've borrowed changes as I pay down some of the loan.

This little tax rate that I have here, this is to actually figureout what is the tax savings of the interest deduction on my loan.

We'll talk about that in a second, you can ignore it for now.

Then these other thingsthat aren't in brown, you shouldn't mess with these if you actually do open up thespreadsheet yourself.

These are automatically calculated.

This right here is amonthly interest rate.

So it's literally theannual interest rate, 5.

5%, divided by 12.

And most mortgage loans arecompounded on a monthly basis so at the end of every monththey see how much money you owe and they will charge you this much interest on that for the month.

Now given all of these assumptions, there's a little bit ofbehind-the-scenes math, and in a future video Imight actually show you how to calculate what theactual mortgage payment is.

It's actually a prettyinteresting problem.

But for a $500,000 loan--Well, a $500,000 house, a $375,000 loan over 30 yearsat a 5.

5% interest rate, my mortgage payment isgoing to be roughly $2,100.

Right when I bought the house, I want to introduce alittle bit of vocabulary, and we've talked about thisin some of the other videos.

There's a asset in questionright here, it's called a house.

And we're assuming it's worth $500,000.

We're assuming it's worth$500,000.

That is an asset.

It's an asset because itgives you future benefit; The future benefit ofbeing able to live in it.

Now there's a liabilityagainst that asset, that's the mortgage loan.

That's a $375,000 liability.

$375,000 loan or debt.

If this was your balance sheet, if this was all of your assetsand this is all of your debt, and you were essentiallyto sell the assets and pay off the debt, if you sell the house you get the title, you can get the money, thenyou pay it back to the bank.

Well actually, it doesn'tnecessarily go into that order but I won't get too technical.

But if you were to unwindthis transaction immediately after doing it, then youwould have a $500,000 house, you'd pay off your $375,000 in debt, and you would get, inyour pocket, $125,000, which is exactly what youroriginal down payment was.

But this is your equity.

The reason why I'm pointing it out now is, in this video I'm notgonna assume anything about the house price,whether it goes up or down, we're assuming it's constant.

But you could not assume it's constant and play with thespreadsheet a little bit.

But I'm introducing thisbecause as we pay down the debt this number's going to get smaller.

So this number is getting smaller.

Let's say at some pointthis is only 300,000.

Then my equity is going to get bigger.

So you could do equity ishow much value you have after you pay off the debt for your house.

If you were to sell thehouse, pay off the debt, what do you have left over for yourself.

This is the real wealth in thehouse, this is what you own.

Wealth in house, or theactual what the owner has.

What I've done here is-- Actually before I get tothe chart let me actually show you how I calculate the chart.

I do this over the course of30 years, and it goes by month.

So you can imagine that there's actually 360 rows here in the actual spreadsheet, and you'll see that ifyou go and open it up.

But I just want to show you what I did.

On month 0, which I don't showhere, you borrow $375,000.

Now, over the course of that month they're going to charge you.

46% interest.

Remember, that was 5.

5% divided by 12.

46% interest on $375,000 is $1,718.

75.

So I haven't made anymortgage payments yet.

I've borrowed 375,000.

This much interest essentiallygot built up on top of that, it got accrued.

So now before I've paidany of my payments, instead of owing 375,000 atthe end of the first month, I owe $376,718.

Now, I'm a good guy, I'm notgonna default on my mortgage so I make that first mortgage payment that we calculated right over here.

After I make that paymentthen I'm essentially, what's my loan balanceafter making that payment? Well, this was before making the payment, so you subtract the payment from it.

This is my loan balance after the payment.

Now this right here, thelittle asterisk here, this is my equity now.

So remember, I startedwith $125,000 of equity.

After paying one loan balance,after my first payment, I now have $125,410 in equity, so my equity has gone up by exactly $410.

Now you're probably saying,"Gee.

I made a $2,000 payment, "roughly a $2,000 payment, "and my equity only went up by $410 "Shouldn't this debthave gone down by $2,000 "and my equity have gone up by $2,000?" And the answer is no because you had to pay all of this interest.

So at the very beginning, your payment, your $2,000 payment, is mostly interest.

Only $410 of it is principal.

So as your loan balance goes down you're going to pay less interest here, so each of your payments are going to be more weighted towards principal, and less weighted towards interest.

And then to figure out the next line, this interest accrued right here, I took your loan balanceexiting the last month, multiplied that times.

46%.

You get this new interest accrued.

This is your new pre-payment balance.

I pay my mortgage again.

This is my new loan balance.

And notice, already by monthtwo, $2 more went to principal.

and $2 less went to interest.

And over the course of 360months you're going to see that it's an actual, sizable difference, and that's what thischart shows us right here.

This is the interestand principal portions of our mortgage payment.

So this entire heightright here, this is-- Let me scroll down a little bit.

This is by month.

So thisentire height, you notice, this is exactly our mortgagepayment, this $2,129.

Now, on that very first monthyou saw that of my $2,100, only $400 of it, this is the $400.

Only $400 of it went toactually pay down the principal, the actual loan amount.

The rest of it went to pay down interest, the interest for that month.

Most of it went for theinterest of the month.

But as I start paying down the loan, as the loan balance getssmaller and smaller, each of my payments, there'sless interest to pay.

Let me do a better color than that.

There's less interest.

We goout here, this is month 198, over there that last monththere was less interest, so more of my $2,100 actuallygoes to pay off the loan until we get all the way to month 360.

You can see this inthe actual spreadsheet.

At month 360 my final payment is all going to pay off the principal.

Very little, if anything,of that is interest.

Now, the last thing I wantto talk about in this video, without making it too long, is this idea of a interest tax deduction.

A lot of times you'll hearfinancial planners or realtors tell you the benefit of buying your house is it has tax advantages, and it does.

Your interest is tax deductible.

Your interest, not your whole payment.

Your interest is tax deductible.

I want to be very clearwhat deductible means.

First let's talk aboutwhat the interest means.

This whole time over 30 yearsI am paying $2,100 a month, or $2129.

21 a month.

Now the beginning, alot of that is interest.

So on month one, 1,700of that was interest.

That $1,700 is tax deductible.

As we go further and further, each month I get smaller andsmaller tax deductible portion of my actual mortgage payment.

Out here the tax deductionis actually very small, as I'm getting ready topay off my entire mortgage and get the title of my house.

I want to be very clear on this notion of what tax deductible even means, because I think it ismisunderstood very often.

Let's say in one yearI paid, I don't know, I'm gonna make up a number, I didn't calculate it on the spreadsheet.

Let's say in year one Ipay $10,000 in interest.

10,000 in interest.

Remember, my actual paymentswill be higher than that because some of my payments went to actually paying down the loan.

But let's say 10,000 went to interest.

And let's say before this, let's say before thisI was making 100,000, let's put the loan aside.

Let's say I was making $100,000 a year, and let's say I was payingroughly 35% on that 100,000.

I won't go into the whole tax structure and the differentbrackets and all of that.

Let's say if I didn't have this mortgage I would pay 35% taxes, which would be about $35,000in taxes for that year.

This is just a rough estimate.

When you say that $10,000is tax deductible, the interest is tax deductible, that does not mean that I canjust take it from the $35,000 that I would have normallyowed and only pay 25,000.

What it means is I can deductthis amount from my income.

When I tell the IRS howmuch did I make this year, instead of saying I made $100,000,I say that I made $90,000 because I was able to deduct this, not directly from my taxes, I was able to deduct it from my income.

So now if I only made $90,000 -- and this is, I'm doing agross oversimplification of how taxes actually get calculated -- and I pay 35% of that, let'sget the calculator out.

Let's get the calculator.

So 90 times.

35 is equal to 31,500.

So this will be equal to $31,500.

$31,500.

Off of a 10,000 deduction,$10,000 of deductible interest, I essentially saved $3,500.

I did not save $10,000.

Another way to think about it, if I paid 10,000 interestand my tax rate is 35%, I'm gonna save 35% ofthis in actual taxes.

This is what people meanwhen they say deductible.

You're deducting it from the income that you report to the IRS.

If there's something thatyou could take straight from your taxes, that'scalled a tax credit.

If there was some specialthing that you could actually deduct it straight from yourtaxes, that's a tax credit.

But a deduction justtakes it from your income.

On this spreadsheet Ijust want to show you that I actually calculated, in that month, how much of a tax deduction do you get.

So for example, just offof the first month you paid $1,700 in interest of your$2,100 mortgage payment, so 35% of that, and I got 35%as one of your assumptions, 35% of $1,700, I will save$600 in taxes on that month.

So roughly over thecourse of the first year I'm gonna save about $7,000 in taxes, so that's nothing to sneeze at.

Anyway, hopefully you found this helpful and I encourage you togo to that spreadsheet, and play with the assumptions, only the assumptions in this brown color unless you really know whatyou're doing with a spreadsheet, and you can see how thisactually changes based on different interest rates,different loan amounts, different down payments, different terms.

Different tax rates, that will actually change the tax savings, and you can play aroundwith the different types of fixed mortgages on this spreadsheet.

So I would want to find a mortgage broker who either had that experience themselves or who had clients that they had got similar deals for ’cause that way I know that they can negotiate on my behalf and they can get this deal across the line.

What details do Lenders need from me?

It’s one thing to call up a mortgage broker and just to get an estimate of your borrowing capacity but if you’re going through pre-approval and stuff like that, then you’re going to need to provide the mortgage broker with more in-depth details.

You might need pay slips; you might need proof of identity, all of that sort of stuff.

If you ask them up front, “What details do you need from me?” And when you go to your meeting with them you actually provide them with those details, well that just makes things so much easier.

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Remember, a mortgage lender is only paid once the deal goes through and once you actually get financing.

So the easier you make it for them, the more likely you are going to get better service.

What can I do as a client to make this go as smoothly as possible?

You have the goal of getting financed for your property, the mortgage lender has a goal of you getting financed for your property and no one wants it to be difficult.

And so, if you can ask the mortgage broker, “Look, how can I work with you? How can I make things easy for you?” They’re the experts; they know what they’re doing.

They can tell you exactly what they need and then you can work hard to provide that for them so that they can get everything across the line as quickly as possible.

Loan Rates

You know, I have customers,I deal with customers and even though I’m not a mortgage broker myself, I know that when there’s difficult customers that you don’t want to deal with, it just makes life so much harder and you don’t want to work hard for those people.

And when there’s customers who are really nice to you and who try really hard to help you provide them with the service you provide, you will bend over backwards to do anything you can for those customers to get them across the line, to help them as much as possible.

So, be one of those customers that the mortgage broker wants to bend over backwards to help you because you have their interest at heart as well.

You want to see them get paid.

You want to see them do an easy mortgage so they get paid easily.

And so you can develop a relationship into the future.

Which lenders can I borrow the most from?

Most people go into a mortgage broker looking for the cheapest interest rate possible.

What is the cheapest interest rate I can get? And the fact of the matter is a mortgage broker is likely to show you the banks that will lend you the amount of money you need and will also have the cheapest interest rate as well.

However, they might not showy ou banks that will lend you more money than you potentially need at the moment.

Now, it’s important to ask, “Which lenders can I borrow the most from?” because this will help you to project into the future.

Maybe you don’t need to know that for this loan right now but maybe, in the future, you might need to borrow money again and you know, or roughly my borrowing capacity is this.

Or if you find out which lenders you can borrow more from, and you find that you can actually borrow an extra $300,000, well you might split up your deposit and invest in two investment properties instead of just one.

And so asking them, “Which lenders can I borrow the most from?” is a great question to ask to really understand your position.

Because, yes, interest rate is important but how much you can borrow is also important as well.

Can I see a full list of my borrowing options?

Most mortgage brokers will provide you with, usually, like a top three or sometimes only a top one.

And I always like to think, “Can I see a full list of my borrowing options?”Again, this is less to say you want to go through all of this in minute detail and see.

You’re probably going to still choose from one of the top three ones.

But you just want to see that they’re giving you the full amount of information.

And most mortgage brokers are good people but there are some dodgy mortgage brokers out there who are just trying to get the deal that gives them the biggest commission.

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And so by asking to see a full list of what your borrowing options, you can then look at that and you can then assess, “Okay, well which loan do I think is going to be best for me?” rather than just taking the recommendation of the mortgage broker who may or may not be thinking about themselves.

So, again, most mortgage brokers are great people out there to help you but it’s always a good idea to get a full list of your borrowing options that are available.

Will this put a mark against my credit file?

And so this is when you’re trying to work out how much you’re going to borrow and stuff like that.

When you go into a bank and you try and find out how much you can borrow, often, the bank will do a credit check and this puts a mark against your credit file.

And what happens is if you have a lot of these marks against your credit file, even though it’s nothing bad, this can actually stop you getting a loan.

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So, talk to your mortgage broker and when you’re looking at, “What can I borrow?”or your looking at getting pre-approval, just understand, “Will this put a mark against my credit file?” ‘Cause it’s not bad to have a couple or whatever.

But if you’re getting lots and lots of marks against your credit file, then that could be an issue.

So just make sure and you know when a mark’s being put against your credit file and when a mark isn’t being put against your credit file.

How soon can I revalue or borrow again?

So if you’re investing in a property to renovate it or to develop it or even if you’re investing in a property that’s potentially under market value, you want to know how quickly can you revalue that property so you can get equity and then hopefully draw equity out of the property to go ahead and invest again.

There are a lot of lenders out there who don’t allow you to revalue within a 12-month period.

So, speak to your mortgage broker about the lenders that will allow you to revalue faster.

And basically, this will give you an idea of how quickly you can revalue to consider going again.

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You’re also going to want to ask them, “After I invest in this property, how soon can I borrow again or what do I need to do to put myself in a position to be able to borrow again and to purchase the next property?” Because hopefully, your goal isn’t just to purchase one property but to grow your property portfolio and to achieve that financial freedom and that financial security that you’re striving for.

Will My Loans be ‘cross-collateralised’?

Now, I have heard a lot of stories about investors whose loans have been cross-collateralised and it’s cause major problems when they’ve gone and sold their property because the bank shave been able to take that money and pay off debt.

And basically, you want to avoid this at all costs from what I hear.

And so, it’s good to ask your mortgage broker, “Will my loans be cross-collateralised in any way?” Generally going with the same lender for two loans does it by default, even though it doesn’t say they’re cross-collateralised.

So, it’s just something that you want to look at the fine print, you want to understand, “Are these cross-collateralised?” And if they are, try and avoid it, try and get loans that aren’t going to be cross-collateralised.

Home Lenders

So there you have some questions to ask your mortgage broker next time you go and see a broker to find out how much you can borrow or get pre-approval or get financed for another property.

If you are in the market, looking at properties and you want to see some high rental yield properties, then I’ve got 10 property listings that I’ve gone out and found for you guys.

You can see what high rental yield properties look like that are likely to generate a positive cash flow.

Did You Know – You Can Get Pre-Approved for a USDA Loan in Corry?

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NSH MortgageBlockedUnblockFollowFollowingMay 3, 2017USDA Home Loan: Is This Your Right Mortgage Choice?USDA Mortgages versus FHA which is better. NSH Mortgage has the wisdom and tools to help you with the financial benefits USDA Mortgage loans provides you. You decided finally to buy your first home so you must consider all that goes into this decision in finding your ideal home.You want to find the ideal home in a good neighborhood. It should fit your budget and possess the right amenities. Once you have found the property, you have another important decision to make how you will finance it.Today’s market offers several programs that makes buying your very first home much easier and there is no right loan choice for everyone. The correct loan is the one that suits your situation the best. Two extremely popular options amongst homebuyers are the USDA Rural Development loan and the FHA home loan.They are both low down payment loans, but beyond that, they are very different. You might be surprised at which one is the right choice for you.Four Ways USDA Or FHA Might Be BetterWhat if you could get a no down payment loan with comparable mortgage rates to FHA? And, what if that loan allows you to finance closing costs, even without ultra high credit scores? Is such a loan too good to be true?The loan actually does exist, and it is called the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Rural Development home loan. It is rising in popularity among first time home buyers. A USDA home loan is different from a traditional mortgage in several ways.But that does not make them inaccessible. In fact, some features of USDA make them more attainable compared to FHA.1. Zero Down Financing Plus MoreUSDA loans require no down payment and you may finance up to 100% of the property value, which, sometimes, is above the home’s purchase price. In these cases, the buyer can finance closing costs. Here is how it works, you make an offer on a home for $200,000.The lender’s official appraisal report states the home is worth $205,000. The buyer can open a loan for the full value and since the excess funds are applied to the closing costs such as the title report and loan origination fees. Excess funds can even be used to prepay property taxes and homeowner’s insurance.So, in the end, the buyer pays even less than no down payment. Home buyers typically pay something out of pocket, even if they put nothing down. Closing costs can add thousands of dollars to the necessary cash to close figure.Even most renters must put up a security deposit, plus a few months rent. But with USDA, there is a chance the buyer can walk into a home paying nothing from their own bank account. With FHA, the homebuyer must come up with a 3.5 percent down payment, plus closing costs.FHA has no guideline stating that the loan amount can exceed the purchase price. The only way to get a zero out of pocket loan with FHA is to get a down payment gift, plus additional gift funds or seller contributions for closing costs. USDA is more flexible, so buyers with little cash on hand should look into this option first.2. USDA’s Rural Location RequirementUSDA eligibility depends on the location of the home. You must purchase a property in a rural area as defined by the USDA. Based on U.S. census information from more than 15 years ago.So, many solidly suburban areas are still eligible. USDA publishes online maps with which buyers can check the eligibility of a certain address or geographical area. Buyers will find that some entire states are USDA eligible.Even highly populated states contain surprisingly vast USDA eligible areas. An estimated 97% of the American landscape is geographically eligible for a USDA loan. Still, some buyers might find that eligible areas are too far outside employment centers, and therefore choose a FHA loan, which comes with no geographical restrictions.3. USDA Income LimitsThe Rural Development loan was created to spur homeownership in rural areas, especially among home buyers who would not otherwise qualify. As such, USDA publishes income limits. Maximums are set at 115% of the median income for the county or area.That amounts to adequately non restrictive limits and the following are some examples of maximum annual incomes in various locales around the country.Denver, Colorado: $94,600Portland, Oregon: $84,550Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: $93,750Albany County, Wyoming: $85,700Not everyone will fall within USDA income limits. That is where FHA comes in the FHA loans comes with absolutely no income limits for its standard program.4. The Owner Occupied RuleYou do not have to be a first time home buyer for either FHA or USDA. However, for both loan types, you cannot own adequate housing within a reasonable distance of the home being purchased. For instance, if you own a three bedroom house, you cannot use FHA or USDA to buy another three bedroom house down the street.You must also plan to live in the home you buy. Rental and investment housing is not allowed under USDA or FHA. Both loans have the same goal: get individuals and families into their own homes.Neither loan permits activity that could be interpreted as a real estate investor building a portfolio.USDA And FHA Mortgage Insurance PremiumsSimilar to the Federal Housing Administration’s FHA mortgage, the USDA uses homeowner paid mortgage insurance premiums to keep the USDA home loan program viable for future home buyers. But USDA mortgage insurance premiums are cheaper than those of FHA, and have recently dropped even further. Beginning in October 1, 2016 USDA reduced its mortgage insurance premiums.The upfront mortgage insurance, which is financed onto your loan balance, dropped from 2.75% to one percent. Likewise, the monthly premium fell 15 basis points (0.15%) to just 0.35%. Compare USDA mortgage insurance to that of FHA and you will immediately see the significant savings.The FHA upfront mortgage insurance premium is 1.75 percent and the monthly fee is typically 0.85 percent of the loan balance, divided equally into 12 installments and included with each mortgage payment. The following table compares the upfront fees and monthly costs on a $250,000 mortgage loan after October 1, 2016.The mortgage insurance savings alone could be enough to push some FHA buyers to USDA, if the zero down payment feature was not reason enough.USDA Loans vs FHA: Ease Of QualifyingThere is no stated maximum loan size for the USDA loan programs. The amount you can borrow is limited by your household’s debt to income (DTI) ratio, the comparison between your monthly debt payments and gross income. Essentially, a homeowner who makes $6,000 per month and $2,000 in monthly debt payments has a DTI of 33%.The USDA typically limits debt to income ratios to 41%, except when the borrower has a credit score over 660, stable employment, or can show a demonstrated ability to save. These mortgage application strengths listed above are often called compensating factors and can play a big role in getting approved for any mortgage not just USDA. Both FHA and USDA mortgage options have pros and cons:No down payment: USDA loans only, FHA is 3.5 percentLocation freedom: FHA primarily, USDA is restrictedIncome limitation: USDA only, FHA has no capsMortgage Insurance Premiums: USDA is cheaperRebound buyers: FHA is more flexible after foreclosureUsually, home buyers that qualify for a USDA rural home loan should go in that direction. With comparable rates, lower mortgage insurance premiums and the opportunity for a 100 percent financing. USDA Rural Development loans make sense for many of today’s suburban home buyer.

Factory farms slip environmental review for USDA loans

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Grant SternBlockedUnblockFollowFollowingSep 13, 2017Florida homeowners impacted by Hurricane Irma who are in a federally declared disaster area — which is most of the state — are eligible for mortgage loan deferments without penalty from the country’s three largest lending agencies.Additionally, the IRS has announced that people who extended their 2016 income tax filings can submit their paperwork next year.Mortgage agencies Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac who issue what are known as conventional bank loans or “A paper” loans have both told loan servicers to extend a 90-day forbearance to anyone who calls and requests it, just click here and here to find out more about their programs.You can lookup your loan agency here for Fannie and here for Freddie.That means you can skip making your next three payments and they’ll be added to the end of the loan without any negative marks on your credit.Quicken Home Loans (disclosure: My mortgage brokerage business is partners with Quicken) is offering that, or to allow all three payments to be made in 90 days, or to divide the payments over a 12-month period after the forbearance period ends.Individual banks are making different arrangements, but if your loan is serviced by one of the national agencies, they’ll all honor the 90-day payment deferment which is mandatory for FHA insured home loans (click here for questions).“Anyone who extended their business or personal tax filings due September 15th and October 15th respectively have additional extensions through January 31st to file their tax returns,” says Florida CPA Steven Price of the Fuoco Group in Boca Raton.“You literally write Hurricane Irma on the top the filings,” Price said, “and they’ll give you relief.”The IRS isn’t a payment extension (you were supposed to do that when extending), but rather a filing extension.Also, many credit card companies will offer a similar disaster forbearance upon request.For anyone who needs additional mortgage assistance, up to 12 months of mortgage forbearance is available upon request.Call your mortgage servicer for more details.

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